Where the Saguaro Rule

Anyone growing up in the 1950s and 60s is familiar with the southwest desert country because every western on television and at the movies feature the painted (albeit sometimes in grey tones) landscapes as the backdrops to playing Cowboys and Indians. It was that picture that we had in mind when we pulled into Tucson, Arizona in early October 2004. We found that it was much richer in person. This issue we share some of the sites and beauty we found in the southeastern Arizona desert between Nogales and Tempe, the desert where the Saguaro rule.

The first part of October, we stayed in the shadow of Mount Limmon between Oro Valley and Oracle, north of Tucson. Also known as the pink mountains, these rocky giants ruled over the canyons with grace and dignity. The nights were cold, clear and full of stars while the days were warm and cloudless. We enjoyed watching the pheasant run through the yard and listening to the coyotes off in the distance.

Sunrise over Tucson Tucson has a laidback beauty that makes the days feel sleepy and restful. Unless, of course, you like climbing the mountain on the back of a dirt bike. Our gracious host in Tucson, Dennis, took Steve out onto the side of the mountain on a dirt bike able to handle his size. There are other ways up the mountain, but maybe not as much fun.

Before leaving the canyon, we did find a great little diner that was universally accessible and had great food to boot. The Sunnyside Cafe made our days a little brighter.

We also visited south of Tucson in the border town of Nogales, spending half a day on the Mexican side. Nogales is a small border town with all of the joys and challenges of sitting on both sides and making room for the travelers heading across of a peek at another world.

In late October we headed out towards Phoenix, but we only made it to Tempe (which in the east valley part of the greater Phoenix area). If Tucson and Nogales were laid back, Tempe and the greater Phoenix area were all urban. Tempe is home to Arizona State University and the Arizona Cardinals. We stayed in a park on the east side of the town, about two miles from the stadium and campus. Downtown Tempe is college town central with the requisite bars, restarants, coffee shops and bookstores.

Mesa is the next town east and since we were on the east side, we spent a lot of time in Mesa. It was there that we discovered Luis Prado and Into the Bean, which has become our unofficial headquarters during our stay in the area.

It was also in Mesa that we discovered Organ Stop Pizza and the world's largest working Wurlitzer Organ. Yes, it was a strange place to find the grand theatre organ that used to accompany silent films as part of the cinema experience. But like Shakespeare's Garden in Wessington Springs, South Dakota, we have learned that the road always leads to someplace you didn't expect. Otherwise, why bother traveling?

The truth is that we have stayed a lot longer than we planned because we have fell in love with the people and places of the East Valley. It was a love we would have never predicted, but are enjoying nonetheless. Of course, it is winter in the valley of the sun and that means the weather has been mild. This will probably not be a summer romance.

Superstition Mountains in our backyard. In early December, after deciding we wanted to stick around for awhile, we started looking for less expensive and more pleasing digs. We found Budget RV Park in Apache Junction, in the shadow of the Superstitions Mountains. What a backyard! The mountain changes every day, and, in fact, several times a day. It is an endless supply of photo opportunities. No wonder it was named superstition. They are mysterious, magical and majestic.

There is plenty more to see in the area, of course, but our coverage of those things will have to wait for other issues. Our time here has been more laidback than touristy. The Ample Traveler© has found plenty of room for everyone in the painted desert. We hope you can feel the warmth from this issue where the saguaro rule.

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